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Tabouret en bois un

Tabouret en bois un peu design par tedey - J'ai fabriquer un tabouret plus ou…

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Knipex Plier-Wrench Review

My last tool review, infrequent as they are, was also on a Knipex product (Cobra pliers) and was posted at the end of last year.

Cobra pliers are fantastic for gripping all sorts of objects, except for those items where we do not wish to mar the surface, like nut and bolt heads, flats on spindles and other shafts, etc..

For loosening nuts and bolts, there are a variety of situations and a variety of tools which can do the job, for better or worse. If one has complete access to the fastener head, then a socket and ratchet/breaker bar are undoubtedly the best choice.

If the space just isn’t there to place the ratchet and socket, or the threaded portion of the bolt is so long you can’t use a socket, then the next tool of choice would be the ring end of a spanner.

Sometimes though, a ring end spanner cannot be placed as there is inadequate space above the nut to slip it into position, and one can only slip a tool in laterally, so one has to use the open end of the spanner.

This works fine, however if the fastener is in really tight, and/or has any previous damage, then the open end spanner can lead to unfortunate outcomes. When heavily loaded, the strain on the metal of the wrench end is enough to cause it to stretch open, weakening the purchase on the fastener, leading to rounding the nut corners.

There is of course the option of using an adjustable wrench, like any one of these I have in my set:

Adjustables are a slightly worse choice then the open end spanner, being a fatter tool and less able to get into tight spaces, and as they are even more prone to undergoing slight jaw openings, especially as a result of being placed under load and then taken off load in a cycle, however they offer the benefit of versatility which makes them a common choice in many people’s tool boxes.

An adjustable wrench is a go-to choice when you don’t have the capacity to take along a full socket set or wrench set, and for those times you come across fasteners with odd dimensions which do not correspond to your wrenches and sockets (like Whitworth for instance, or encountering Japanese JIS metric head standards when your tools are set up around DIN standards (for example, for an 8mm bolt, the bolt head is 13mm in DIN, and 12mm in JIS), then an adjustable wrench is certainly handy.

Adjustable wrenches are likely among the first tools many folks would buy, and are a likely tool to be found in the barebones toolboxes of folks that rarely if ever use tools, but have a few around for household use.

One lesser-known aspect to adjustable wrenches is that they are directional: the rotation of the tool is meant to be applied so that loads go into the fixed jaw of the tool, not the adjustable jaw, as this Japanese Nepros wrench makes clear with an etching on the tool handle:

But, as noted, for fasteners which are very tight, rusted in place, etc., the adjustable wrench tends to produce nut rounding, given that there is some play in the system and so, for those with options, is not typically the first tool one reaches for when faced with a recalcitrant fastener, and indeed, are hardly suited for the role of ‘last resort’ either.

The Knipex pliers wrench is an improvement upon an adjustable wrench, as it incorporates the function of pliers, i.e., the ability to apply squeezing force to the fastener head, it does not therefore suffer from the same weakness as the adjustable wrench.

I obtained my first pliers wrench last, the ‘XL’ or 400mm version with standard grip, for Christmas last year. Then, not too long afterward, through my connection with KC Tool, obtained a set of two, based on an arrangement whereby I would test them out for an extended period and then write a review on this blog. Full disclosure: if you buy a Knipex plier wrench through one of the links provided on this page, any other German hand tool via the KC Tool banner on the right of the page, I will receive a modest percentage of the sale. Any proceeds in my direction will be plowed back into other purchases of KC Tools. It’s a closed loop.

So, that’s been 8 months now or thereabouts since I have had the plier wrenches on hand, and I have had ample opportunities to use the various sizes of pliers wrench for a myriad of tasks. These tools have earned a permanent place in my tool set, and my adjustable wrenches are now in the discard pile.

I have found the pliers wrench useful in a variety of situations, from removing water meters, crimping small areas of sheet metal, to daily use a wrench on my milling machine to place and remove hold-downs and other fixtures. I have not done any tile work with them (they would be great for snapping off small portions of tile), so I have something to look forward to in that regard.

Here, I’m using the 250mm size plier-wrench to install a threaded stud in to the Wadkin table saw sliding table support beam:

Like an adjustable wrench, the plier wrench has a direction of operation, and it is the same, putting the laid into the upper fixed jaw. with the pliers-wrench, this is also the direction to load the wrench so that the self-locking aspect comes into play. Once set, as you can see in the above picture, the wrench handle no longer need to be squeezed and can be operated, if you choose, with only a pulling grip.

To loosen, such as when I take the locknuts off of the installed stud, the wrench is flipped over, and again, once set, a clench-hold on the handles is not required:

I like the way the wrench operates, and, as the video shows above, one can repeatedly tighten or loosen a nut without having to slide the wrench off of the fastener.

Also, the plier function is great for all sorts of things, like delicately gripping small wooden parts to remove them from fixtures:

I’ve also used the wrench jaws on occasion to apply a little judicious ki-goroshi or grain pre-compressing, to some joinery, like lap joints.

The only aspect which takes a bit of practice to learn is that of setting the wrench opening, however this is really the same issue as with any slip-jaw sliding adjustable plier. you want to set the jaw opening so that the handles come together with about an inch (2.5cm) opening so that the self-locking function can work properly.

Overall, these tools are well made, beautiful to look at, built to last and offer advantages over conventional adjustable wrenches. Like the Knipex cobra wrench, the only wearing parts really are those associated to the push-button mechanism, and a repair kit is available for that. If you are one of those folks who has few tools, or needs to keep the number of tools in a go-to-site tool bag to a minimum, the plier-wrench is a great choice given its versatility. One plier wrench and one cobra wrench covers a lot of ground as it were.

For instance, my friend Matt, doing some maintenance work on the gate at the MFA in Boston, found the small plier wrench the tool which made it possible to open the garden water spigot, which otherwise requires a square female key:

The Knipex plier-wrench is a super versatile tool, and I highly recommend it. It’s just a matter of picking the right size for your application(s). I would imagine the most ‘all-around’ size is likely to be the 250mm model or the 180mm model. Having three size in the tool box works for my needs, though I am tempted to add the smallest size, the 125mm model, as I think that will also prove useful at times. For those that would like a cushioned grip, there are cushion grip versions of all the models as far as I know, and for those that anticipate working on electrical devices with these wrenches, there are also models with 1000v. rated insulating grips. grips are even available with a choice between tethered and untethered. There’s even a version of the plier wrench in the 250mm size with a 15˚ bend in the handles to facilitate working on a fastener which is flat onto a surface. I think I will also be adding one of those to the set in the near-future as well.

Competitors to this product are out there, and I have not explored those alternatives. I imagine if the tool is German made, you will get a quality item that lasts for years, so I can mention a few alternates in the ‘all-around’ size that might be worth a look at:

NWS 250mm PowerMax pliers

Gedore 250mm JC Plier Wrench

Stahlwille PowerGRIP 253mm pliers wrench

Wiha Soft Grip Plier Wrench

You can save some money with the Wiha product, however note that it is manufactured in Vietnam, not Germany.

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wooden letter opener

wooden letter opener | Letter Opener - Bird Shape

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Just made these toda

Just made these today. A class set of rekenreks. Excited to use them with the kids!

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İlginç Tasarım Harek

İlginç Tasarım Hareketli Ahşap Raf Modeli 2015 | Dekorasyon Önerileri

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Countersinks that Wo

Countersinks that Works: My countersinks produced rough and wavey holes, which kept me from using them much … until I tried them in reverse … and BAM! … smooth holes! #woodworking #tools #diy

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These DIY pallet pla

These DIY pallet plaques are easy to make to display your photos around the home. #easyhomedecor

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Nelly the Elly (13.5

Nelly the Elly (13.5 x 9.5 cm) 7 pieces

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Large Wooden Wall Ar

Large Wooden Wall Art Parametric Sculpture Wood Sculpture

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With each turn, you’

With each turn, you’re faced with a decision: move your pawn or place a wall to hinder your opponent. The first pawn to the other side wins. This Marbles branded Exclusive boasts a high-quality walnut board and jumbo playing pieces. It’s part game, part centerpiece – and 100% fun!

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pallets

pallets

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These modern hanging

These modern hanging wall shelves made from reclaimed wood have a ledge to display a little trinket and a bud vase for a flower.

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Slotting in Something New

A crate has arrived at my shop. In lieu of the ‘unboxing video’, I present a few images, starting with this one:

Let me know, if you feel like it, by which picture can you identify the type of machine, and which specific make and model. It’s a game with no prize at stake I’m afraid. Don’t worry, if you’re not savvy about machinery, it will all be revealed soon enough.

With the lid off the crate, a bit more can be seen:

I’m guessing that some readers have figured out what sort of thing it is by now, but probably not make and model.

Here’s a teaser that I’m sure gives away way too much info:

Mind you, that sort of device does appear on various sorts of machines….

Some electrical switches on view here:

Okay, a big reveal – can there be any doubt now?:

If you’re still unsure, well, it’s a mortiser. More specifically a slot mortiser, or as I see it, a horizontally mounted router-like cutting machine with 3 axes of movement.

As the plastic comes off, it all becomes a bit clearer:

It’s interesting to me how European and Japanese 3-phase machinery comes with rather slender power cordage, 16 g. perhaps for the individual wires, while the US specs for similarly-rated plugs, cord  and so forth are gigantic. I find it kinda weird that there should be a difference of opinion, it would appear, as to electrical part ratings between the three most developed areas in the world for manufacturing.

This machine features a swiveling head. The table is fixed, and the head moves. That means you can park fairly heavy stuff on the table without worry. Many other mortisers come with the cutter fixed, and the table being the moving part.

The head features a standard 2-jaw chuck, though I have plans to upgrade to a newer type collet chuck in the future:

The company that makes this machine, still in business, has hardly changed this model in 20 years, so parts and accessories should not be a significant problem.

That above statement was a big clue as to the manufacturer because there aren’t a whole lot of woodworking machine manufacturers these days, for one thing, and those who have kept the production of a machine like this essentially unchanged, and who actually stock spare parts reduces the number even further. This is not a company that buys so much into the pre-planned obsolescence idea.

Still, there are a few companies that come to mind. I haven’t narrowed the options down to one quite yet.

The table is in perfect shape and is planed, as you can tell by the telltale lines in the surface:

That’s another clue, because fewer and fewer companies, engaged as they are in cost-cutting, plane table surfaces these days and instead resort to grinding.

I didn’t get a manual, but I did pick up one accessory, which is the double-sided protractor, visible in the upper left of this photo:

On the right is the depth stop rod assembly, perfectly straight. Also visible is the chuck key in the middle. Everything is just STOUT.

The seller gave me an option of a pair of Festo pneumatic clamps, or a single factory manual clamp. Perversely, though the pneumatic clamps offer many advantages, I decided to keep the stock parts together and chose the manual option. The company that makes this machine does offer a pneumatic clamp so I could upgrade later if need be.

So what it is specifically? A Hofmann LB760S mortiser!:

The metal bar on the left is for the hold down clamp is is upside down at the moment. There are four stout attachment positions for the clamp on the table, and the table also has a lip on each edge, to which a transverse hold down bar can be fitted (an option).

This machine dates from 2001, and has seen very little use. The previous owner happened to be around when Laguna Tools lost the right to distribute Hofmann at that time, and was in a position to acquire several showroom machines, including this one. He was running two shops and had other mortisers, so this one didn’t see a bunch of use.

I could find but a few chips in the paint, and the only damaged item is the aluminum psa-backed protractor label, which is upturned slightly at one corner (and still has its factory plastic sheet covering attached). That is it as concerns wear and tear, as far as I can see at this point – a gem:

Looking around at what is one the market, I don’t think there is a better slot mortiser to be had, and I am delighted to have scored my first Hofmann machine, a brand have I esteemed greatly since around 2001 when I first saw a video of their machinery at a house in Redwood City California (thanks Matt C.).

In the near future I will find a place for this machine in my space (a challenge in its own right), get it wired up and hook up some dust collection. It has three (!) dust collection ports so I guess I’ll need, as it seems with every new machine purchase, some additional duct parts and flex hose. I have no tooling either, so I’ll need to look into that, though I am planning to make use of router bit tooling so I’ll be able to get started at least. Once it is up and running I’ll take a video.

I hope you enjoyed the unboxing, and let me my know how many pictures it took before you twigged on to what the surprise in the box was. That’s all for now, thanks for visiting.

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