Tuesday, January 29, 2019

Dark Chocolate and Sponge Cake (18)

A little bit of trial fitting still needed on the drawer bank framing, as I had to mark out the locations for the peg mortises on the tenons of connecting parts. Here’s the connection between rear strut, rear upper rail, and the middle panel supporting batten:

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On top of the same connection the through tenons are clearer to see:

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Another view:

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Then there was the connection between front strut, front upper rail, and the middle panel batten to assemble:

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This spearpoint connection seemed decent enough upon initial fit:

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Another view of the same connection, this time from the other side:

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Now onto the next task on the list, which is processing the 4 drawer bank rails for their end joinery. This work was complicated slightly by differences in the posts, front and rear, to which they connect. This left the joinery looking much the same, but with 1/16″ (1.6mm) differences in lengths here and there:

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The protruding tenons you can see at the bottom will be formed into dovetail males soon enough, and those are also sized differently for front and rear rail sets.

Then I got busy on a component which associates to the drawer framing, a stiffener rail which is fitted below the drawer bank’s front lower rail. A portion of this piece has a mitered return all of 1/16″ thick. I obtained a metalworking 45˚ dovetail bit for trimming the mitered portion, and it worked most excellently at 3600rpm:

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After the trim is completed, I am left with a little chisel work to do on the abutment afterwards with my skinniest 1mm wide chisel.

The clamped-on backing piece prevents spelching as the cutter exits:

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The next task was to remove portions of the stick’s sides, front and back, as this stick has the x-section form of the lower half of an I-beam. After the material was removed, I tackled the clean up with a shoulder plane:

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One has to be careful in using a plane like that with a cutter going all the way to the side of the plane body (a little bit beyond that, actually), as it would be easy to gouge the 45˚ portion of the profile with the plane. Managed to get through without mishap.

The completed stick, shown here at one end so you can see the section:



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Sunday, January 27, 2019

Dark Chocolate and Sponge Cake (17)

Things have slowed in the shop, as I have been keeping my hours on the shorter side as the deep freeze has set in. I’m starting to consider the purchase of a heated jacket, and maybe gloves. It was 34˚F (1˚C) in the shop a few days ago, and only modestly warmer at 37˚F (2.7˚C) today. My right hand is starting to get weirdly achy, and the cold is largely responsible. It seems to me that since I have crested 50 years of age, my eyesight has gotten worse and now I am thinking my circulation also. I find that once my fingers get cold, they stay cold and take longer than seems reasonable to warm back up to normal.

Wearing gloves helps, but only marginally. I found my fingers were quite cold despite being gloved today, and while I do have thicker gloves I could use, dexterity suffers. And you don’t need to tell me that wearing gloves around spinning cutters is not exactly betting wisely.

Anyhow, enough wingeing for the time being. Though things be slow, they are progressing. Still working on the parts for the drawer bank, and most of them are through cut out now. The following picture shows some of the parts:

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The two rails on the left are the upper drawer bank frame rails, front and rear, while the middle set of 4 are the top and bottom end rails, found transversely left and right.

A closer look at 3 of the 4 main rails, turned on side:

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I’m generally striving this time to keep the number of times the pieces are assembled to one another, so unless I have to, I am avoiding putting the elements fully together at this time. Nevertheless, it is helpful to to a semi-mockup to confirm nothing obvious has been missed:

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The front strut, having spearpoints top and bottom, is one of those exceptions, as it needs some trial fitting to take the last few shavings off to tune the fit in:

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At this point, it looks to be getting pretty close. The doubled miter area closes up tight without any egregious sukima (gaps), but the housing portion could be taken down a few slices yet:

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A tiny bit of the spearpoint was inadvertently dinged in removing it from the paring jig, but once the surfaces are finish planed that will be gone. I’ve already steamed 95% of the tiny ding out.

As you can see in this view, the strut is still about 0.01″ or so from being seated all the way down:

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A look at the rear of the same connection shows the confluence of parts:

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And the view from the underside reveals the through tenons from the strut:

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The tenons will get wedged and glued at the time of final assembly. They are one of the few connections on this cabinet which resort to glue and non-demountable joints.

The 1/4″ (6.35mm) peg mortises I have been leaving to the hollow chisel mortiser, and that little bit of auger bit kiss on the left peg mortise does annoy slightly. However the peg which is to fit there, as it is done as an interference fit against the end grain portions of the peg mortise, should fill the area. I guess if someone lays on their back and looks up at the rail from below, with some good lighting, they may spot it, but I think it will turn out okay.

I slipped a few more of the pieces together part-way, just checking things out:

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More:

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Friday, January 18, 2019

Dark Chocolate and Sponge Cake (16)

Next up in the layout and cutout scene are the parts which comprise the framing for the bank of 2 drawers in the middle of the cabinet. There are 4 rails which serve as the front and rear supports, 7 cross piece, and 2 vertical struts, pictured here upon 98% completion:

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Another view, showing the outside faces:

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As you can see, the strut which will separate the drawers at the front of the cabinet has spear point returns top and bottom, which the strut for the back of the cabinet, being concealed from view, lacks the spear points. Otherwise they are much same, with the other principal difference being that the rear strut, to the left in the above photos, has an additional mortise in the middle to accept a locking pin. The locking pin will anchor the middle of the rear panel of the cabinet to the back of the drawer bank.

As parts are completed, they may be stacked together. Here, I’ve added two of the middle crosspieces, the one on the left also serving as a batten for the middle shelf of the cabinet:

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Now another part is completed and added, and you can see how the lower middle crosspiece, which guides the bottom runners of the drawers which flank it, is put together to form a triple-tenoned connection at each end:

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A closer look-  the lower element has a dado on top to locate the piece above:

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All these pieces have yet to be chamfered of course. Also, they will need to be fitted to the rails so as to mark the locations of the peg mortises.

The 4 rails came next, the layout of which took quite a while. Here I’m trimming the housing for the spear point on the front strut:

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A look at the near-completed cut out in this area:

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A while later, the joinery at the midpoints of each rail were largely roughed out, and in some portions complete:

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Another view:

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Given that the arrangement of parts at the top of this assembly, where a 3/8″ (9.5mm) thick  shelf panel will reside, and the arrangement at the bottom, where 1/2″ (12.7mm) thick dust panels reside, and where the drawer runner needs to be guided and supported, and given that the arrangement of framing is also different front (where there are doors) and back (where there is a demountable panel), there are as a result myriad little differences in the layout of rails top, bottom, front and back.  I had to take extra steps and double-checks to make sure I had reflected these differences in the layout.

I had a close call in rediscovering that the rear rails needed to have slightly wider and shorter end dovetails than those dovetails employed on the end of the front rails of the cabinet – this outcome due to a variety of reasons – and had already cut the rails to length before this discovery was made. Fortunately, I had taken measurements from the drawing depicting the (front) rails with the longer tenons, so now that this difference has been determined, I will luckily pay no penalty and the dreaded ‘board stretcher’ will not be required (I heard that they were on sale at Amazon though).

Another look at the rails mid-way through cut out:



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Sunday, January 13, 2019

Dark Chocolate and Sponge Cake (15)

The shop, being unheated, has been a little unpleasant to hang out for the past couple of weeks, so shop hours have been reduced. I go as long as can, but once my hands get cold I start to worry about incurring another one of those slow-healing wrist or finger injuries. I’d rather not thanks.

I do like the clear days when the winter sunlight streaming in the side of my shop, generally making the midday hours a lot more enjoyable despite the cold.

Besides the main panels of this cabinet, comprising the top, the bottom, and the panel over the drawer bank, there are two additional sets of horizontally-oriented panels. These are the drawer floors, and then the drawer bank’s lower ‘dust panels’, tied in with the lower framing of the drawer bank.

The drawer floor panels were to finish at 3/8″ (9.5mm) however they had been left many months back at 1/2″ (12.7mm), and in the interim had cupped slightly. The panels are too wide even for my 19.75″ (500mm) jointer to deal with And given how wide they were for their thickness, they actually would be tough to joint properly, as the force required to feed such a wide board steadily over a jointer exceeds the board’s resistance to being flattened out, and a cupped board which gets pushed flat during the jointing cut rebounds to cupped condition afterwards, getting you nowhere but thinner.

So, flatting in this case is by way of hand planing:

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The cup was about 1/16″ across the width, and I did more than a few passes at oblique angles to flatten out the board:

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Mahogany is just so freakin’ tasty! And this is just the ‘genuine’ stuff, the “Sponge Cake” of this build. I’m battling delayed gratification in regards to finish planing the Cuban mahogany, which has been a delight for joinery cutting so far. It is something to which I look forward.

Once planed flat on one side, the two drawer floor boards were run through my planer to thickness them, a machine which, at 24.8″ (630mm), is just wide enough to accept the boards, themselves 23.875″ (606mm) wide.

After planing them flat, and with them remaining flat, I processed the tongues on the three edges of each board:

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The two boards serving as dust panels required much the same, however they were glued up from a pair of vertical grain mahogany boards, and received a tongue all around. These boards were trimmed to width and length on the tablesaw, a last step to bring them to final dimension coming by way of hand plane, with the boards ganged so as to provide a wider registration surface.

Here I’m finding some amusement in the end grain shavings:

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That’s a staged shot – the right hand shaving did not quite come out like that as the shaving itself has minimal integrity due to the way the wood is sliced and can’t sorta shoot out of the plane mouth in a nice line – I just wanted to show that the shaving was continuous. And it’s kinda cool to look at a translucent slice of the end grain of a board, especially given that the boards are near perfect vg.

Another look:

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I took that shaving home to show my (bemused) wife, who thought it was kinda neat too.

One of the two panels had a small black hole that required patching. I’m not sure if it comes from a bug or is some sort of branch vestige. There have several of them in the Honduran mahogany, and if possible in the course of producing components of course I try to trim around such defects, but there was no way around having the odd one here and there unfortunately.

Anyway, this is how that patch came out:

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Nothing is ever perfect, but I feel it is fairly hard to spot that patch unless you are looking for it, and to do that you’d have to look under the drawer bank with good lighting. And I think, if an eye does catch upon that patch, then seeing it is a cleanly fitted and cared-for thing transmits a positive message, I hope, to the viewer. What else are you gonna do – filling it with epoxy or similar seems like the only other option. I prefer the patching.

Curiously, while the waney edges of the Cuban mahogany were completely bug-eaten, there have been very few apparent bug holes within the rest of the material.

The panels for the drawer floors and the under-drawer dust panels are done, save for a finish planing:

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One might wonder about finish planing a surface like a dust panel which will never likely be viewed by anyone, but it bugs me to see that telltale stationary planer ripple on wood surfaces, so it has got to be cleaned up, ‘proper like’.

The middle panels for the sides are also through to the same stage (not shown).

For the middle shelf, I cut a shallow dovetail trench on the underside and prepared the support batten as well:

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Meanwhile, along with the panel work I’ve been sifting my way through the list of pieces I need to complete the framing of the cabinet, focussing first, as always, on the largest/longest pieces left on the list and working my way to smaller, more or less. So far so good.

On the left are the four sticks comprising the frame members for the sill, in the middle are the two pieces for the stiffening beams, and then the 4 sticks, on the right are the framing members for the drawer bank:



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Tuesday, January 1, 2019

31 Indoor Woodworkin

Cantilevered sewing

Mesa

Cantilever Wood Sewi

Cantilever Wood Sewing Box

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caja

caja

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Dark Chocolate and Sponge Cake (13)

After 2018, I’m working on a theory that odd-numbered years are better than even numbered years…..

I have decided, and not recently, as a result of numerous personal quirks and failings, that by and large I am not taking the simplest route, the quickest out, the fastest way from a to b or anything along those lines, particularly when it comes to woodworking . I’d rather realize an ideal that comes out of having taken a good long look at some of the best pieces from antiquity so that I can also ask: what’s the best answer to a given problem, given any constraints that might be present?

I’m not saying I have all the answers to that by any stretch, but am merely an observer and reporter of the scene along the particular lines of investigation that appeal to me. Hopefully some out there might also enjoy what might at best amount to rambling investigations of a joinery nature?

Besides the functional and constructional aspects relating to design, a piece built to last should look good – good enough at least for people to want to keep around for their lifetimes – and hopefully realize an outcome, in terms of ultimate durability, well beyond one or two lifetimes. Designing something to be robust is not so hard, but making a piece robust and yet graceful, not overly thickened in the part dimensions, well, that is an altogether different challenge. How to bottle the genie of ‘timeless design’ is another question.

With the futon cabinet, once I had worked with the client to determine the design direction and the rough sizing of the cabinet, there came the question of how the piece should look. Part of that is the choice of wood, part of that is the decision about how much joinery to express/hide, part of that is the nature of what associates to joined work. Finally, there are molded profiles and chamfers, which contribute greatly to how a piece looks, to play around with. Joined work is not going to look like veneered work most of the time, unless, that is, that the veneered work is making an extra effort in the artistic direction of resembling a joined piece of solid wood. This does happen.

If I am to, er, adhere to that concept of no-glue wood framed construction ever more closely, it means that this piece will be built, if at all possible, entirely with frame and panel work (rather than a corner-joined plank carcase as seen on the sideboard I made for the client last year). That piece combined carcase work with frame and panel elements. This time, I seek to only work with frame and panel elements. There’s one design driver all by itself.

The employment of frame and panel offers the chance to break the piece into discrete framed panel units insofar as possible. The doors are frame and panel units, as is the back of the cabinet. The top and bottom are similarly frame and panel, and then we have the latticed sides, which, though not paneled, are frames infilled with lattice and realize some of the same benefits as a frame and panel.

The biggest difficulty in designing with frame and panel is not so much in making the basic frame and panel units, for those are all much the same in how that are built. The difficulties come, initially, with how one connects the various frame and panel units to one another.

One choice for that is to use posts at each corner which connect the top and bottom frames of the cabinet together. Then the question becomes: how do we connect the posts to the frame and panel assemblies which (may) meet the post upon more than one face?

There are frame and panel units which attach to the post side-to-side, and there are other frame and panel units which will connect to the ends of the post. Each situation is a separate problem in itself, and each offers a limited range of solutions.

What becomes a most critical consideration in regards to the ‘how’ of the joinery, is that of ‘what’ the order of assembly needs to be. Order of assembly must be fully worked and out double checked, as you want to produce a cabinet in the end that can be assembled. I live in terror of being painted, as a self-inflicted injury, into that corner again.

Joining discrete wood frames to one another, or to posts or other intermediary elements, means that many of the connections are of a ‘sistered’ nature. If you want the parts to be closely together without gaps, or, to form a structural connection of some sort, and you want the joinery to be demountable and not involve metal fasteners, then the choices in solid wood joinery come down, as far as I know, to sliding dovetail keys, floating or incorporated in one of the members, or sliding hammerhead keys, or crosswise floating tenons secured with draw-bored pegs.

There are pros and cons to each approach, but one controlling factor is simply the question of how, and in what order, are the parts are to go together.

Sliding joint assembly means the use of dovetails, dovetail keys, or hammerhead keys, and those have characteristically two directions of movement, one in terms of how the parts are offered up to one another, and the second, generally at 90˚ to the first movement, in how the parts slide along one another to lock up the joint.

While those types of connections provide plenty of close lateral connection between the parts, the defect to the sliding connections is that they do not fix the joined assemblies such that they cannot continue to slide against one another from then on out. They might be limited to one direction of movement. And when they slide apart, they also tend towards greater looseness So, if you want the connection to be more rigid then you will have to add something to it to prevent the parts from sliding against one another. Not what you would call an insurmountable challenge, but when you start to pare the part dimensions down some, and things are getting crowded together at a confluence of joinery, say, then it may become less straightforward.

If you employ the floating pegged tenons instead of sliding dovetails then there are consequences as well in terms of assembly directions.

With the issue of joining a post 90˚ (or other angle somewhat close to 90˚) to a frame and panel assembly via the post’s ends, typically means the use of mortise and tenon. Connecting the post’s end to the frame is going to be done either at the corner of the frame where the joints are located, or some distance removed from that.

In this cabinet, the desire to maximize interior room for the overall volume, for one thing, precluded against the posts being setback from the corners of the cabinet to any significant degree, though pushing the pasts back away from the corners does open up options in terms of the joinery to be used, both at the corner and where the post meets the frame.

I needed to accommodate the front doors of the cabinet at the location of the front posts. The door hinging is configured so the doors can swing 270˚ open, and the profiles of the front posts and the hinging stiles of the door are mated closely to one another. I think this arrangement is vastly preferable to having doors which stop in the open position where you end up with the door frame free to run into surrounding support framing as it reaches the limit of its opening. It is the sort of accident which stresses the cabinet joinery and hinges, possibly dents pieces of cabinet woodwork, fails to win the heart and mind of the most ardent client, and the open door remains a continued hazard to walking in any case. Best avoided if you ask me.

In this cabinet, the front posts are to be shaped to accommodate the 270˚ swinging doors, while the rear posts are shaped so as to provide connections for the demountable back panel unit, a piece that normally is not opened or removed. Both posts are expected to connect identically to the top and bottom cabinet frames and maintain symmetrical reveals to those frames.

With the connection between post and top and bottom frame/panel units at the corners, and the top frame molded on its outside face as it is in this cabinet, certain joinery options are thereby manifest, and certain other options are not going to prove suitable. And as noted earlier, the deciding factor of which joint or even constructional system to use depends a lot upon the assembly sequence. It’s like understanding an interlocking stick puzzle, or burr. There’s a certain order to how things go together/come apart and if you don’t pay very close attention to that when you are designing then you could end up in a predicament.

Generally the joint which will work at the top corner is also going to work for the bottom sill frame/panel assembly corner. If I wanted to also keep a consistency in the look of the most exposed-to-view-joinery, then that aspect might be something to which I paid heed, but with the top of this cabinet the post tenon could be through and thereby exposed to view, while on the bottom of the cabinet the tenon end was not going to be visible even if through. So, that gave some leeway in terms of the details of the connections at top and bottom not needing to be the same as one another.

The joint between the post and the upper frame involves a tenon, which, if I were employing glue, could be kept relatively short. Here, with no glue to grip it, it needs to be a bit longer to accommodate some sort of mechanical stopping/locking mechanism. Given that the upper frame and panel unit joins to the post tenon as a pre-assembled component, then tenon, in order to be accessible for mechanical locking, needs to pierce right through the joint.

Now, the tenon could be fox-tailed,  a concealed internal one-way wedging of the tenon otherwise known in Japanese as the ‘Hell tenon’. However, I want that demountability between the top framed unit, the post, and the bottom framed unit, so no use of hell tenons seemed worth considering. If demountabiliy was unimportant otherwise, then it would be a connection to consider.

Obviously, even in no-glue construction one could make exceptions for impermanent bonding agents, like a weak starch glue of some kind, or some wiped-on lacquer, to lightly reinforce a connection, which otherwise is fully dependent upon a tight fit between mortise(s) and tenon(s).

On the top frame of this cabinet the joint is fully exposed to view, while on the bottom frame it will be completely hidden. This difference leads to the possibility of different outcomes in joint design for those two places.

On the top, I choose to show the top of the tenon, but it is neither wedged nor is it reinforced with a weak glue. How then is the top frame and panel assembly prevented from being pulled apart from the post, you might wonder? Just m&t friction?

My solution was to make it a good friction fit joint, yes, and to also employ the side frames as an intermediary connection between the posts and the top frame. The side frames with lattice connect to the top frame’s end pieces with sliding dovetail keys, and the side frames are also connected to the posts with sliding dovetail keys. What prevents the connection to top frame from continuing to slide after assembly is that the flanking posts tenon into the same frame member. That blocks the side to side movement. The up and down sliding of the joint between lattice frame and post is blocked by way of a pair of wooden tapered pins.

The assembly sequence is therefore one of connecting side panels to the top frame end members, and then connect the posts to the side frames and slide the posts along the lattice frame until their top tenons pierce through the top frame’s corner joints.

For the bottom frame connection to the post, the only condition which is different, as previously mentioned, is that the post tenon which pierces the frame corner joint emerges completely out of view under the cabinet. So, I do have the option there of making a direct mechanical wooden connection, instead of borrowing the connection form that I did with the join to upper frame corner. Moreover, I am needing to do a direct locking connection to the tenon as a result of the previous decision about how the cabinet parts assemble to one another starting at the top. Once the posts have slid into place in the top frame, sistered to the side panels with lattice, then the option is no longer there to do a similar connection with the bottom frame end pieces and the bottom of the side frame as I had done on the top of the post.

If the cabinet bottom was the last frame and panel assembly, then the post tenon would need to either be trimmed flush with the bottom face of the frame member where it emerges, or some point short of that face.

If, however, the bottom frame and panel is not the bottom of the cabinet, if there are feet or some sort of sill assembly that raise it up off the floor, then other options arise for the post tenon joinery. The most obvious of these being that the post tenon can be elongated well beyond the face where it emerges, and is wedged crosswise. This approach is also preferred generally by me as it is a demountable connection. So, that’s the direction I tried to develop here.

This design direction initially did not come from trying to solve a joinery issue – I thought the cabinet should be a little bit more than the bare minimum of a simple box, and thought it would look better with some sort of plinth or base below the bottom frame, something to set the box on a pedestal.

Initially, I drew the cabinet with a supporting 4-sided skirt of sorts which joined at the corners with a miter:

Patrick's Cabinet II perspective

The skirt had a surface which was concave, beaded, and which featured a surface jogging both inward and upward. One thing that could be said about it is that it was not going to be an easy component to make.

When it came to resolving the design details at the cabinet corners however, I tried a variety of approaches to satisfy the aesthetic desired. And yeah, it can be done in various ways. But, I wasn’t quite satisfied with any of the solutions I arrived at technically, especially when it came to figuring out how to terminate the pesky post tenon connection behind/into the skirt/sill and tied up in this puzzle was also the issue of how to attach the skirt itself to the cabinet’s bottom frame and panel assembly.

At one point, in working to solve this cluster of challenges, I redesigned the skirt so as to be composed not of four sticks joined with miters at the corners, but of four pre-assembled ‘miter corner units’ and 4 interconnecting stretchers between those corner units. This is an overall increase from 4 parts to 16 parts for the sill/skirt though.

This different construction gave the corners more of a look, it seems to me, of being upon pedestals:

Patrick's Cabinet II

The inner returns on the skirt could be made to curve inwards instead of outwards as they are shown above, and the pedestal look for the area would be replaced by a look of 4 squat sorta feet poking out.

Here’s a look at the underside of one of those pedestals, or corner units:

Patrick's Cabinet II corner unit

The triangular plate stiffens the corner and attaches to the corner with a tongue and groove. There are 2 floating tenons between the corner of the skirt and the lower frame corner as well to reinforce it. It was a workable solution but it still left me feeling like I hadn’t quite solved the problem yet, and I found some of the joinery on the awkward side. Despite the reinforcing steps, I also was left with the niggling feeling that the joints overall had a degree of fragility which led me to realize that I wasn’t quite done yet with the design.

I didn’t like the recourse to gluing of the corner miter, regardless of what sort of join w



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